On old Walser trails

Friday: Campello Monti to Rimella

As there were only four of us in the end, Dominic drove us to Omegna on Lake Orta in his private car. Before we drove up the adventurous road to Campello Monti, we had a short coffee break in Omegna.

We set off from the small, tranquil village of Campello Monti. It started at a leisurely pace, then the beautifully laid out path became a little steeper. The sun wasn’t shining, but it was very “humid”. At the highest point, 1924 m, Bocchetta di Campello, we took a break and enjoyed the magnificent view. Then it was time for the last section of the day. Refreshed, we walked down to Rimella, 1182 m above sea level. We marveled at the many pretty stone houses, got talking to the locals and found our accommodation for the first night.

At 8 pm we had dinner at the legendary Fontana. Just as it should be in Italy, there were lots of small starters. We had almost eaten enough, but there were two more main courses and another dessert.

Tired and with full bellies, we moved into our rooms… and were already looking forward to the second day.

Saturday: Rimella – Alpe Baranca

On the 2nd day we left the ancient and cozy Albergho Fontanna shortly before 10:00. First we walked down to cross the stream. On the other side we climbed up through the forest, past a few Walser hamlets to the Alpe da Res. This September 2nd there was a traditional festival with games, food, music and a mass in front of the small chapel. It was lunchtime, we ate a light picnic and then began the descent into Val Mastallone. On the way, we met several other festival participants.

In the valley, we had to walk up a tarred road for a while. It was quiet, no cars, but walking on a road is not so much fun. It wasn’t long before we arrived in Santa Maria. We followed another hiking trail along a beautiful stream with a waterfall. So we walked a good hour to Alpe Baranca, 1576m. A peaceful place where we received a very warm and simple welcome. We stayed there for the night, again with a sumptuous dinner. A horse, donkey, cows, sheep, goats, chickens, two dogs all living there together completed the bucolic picture!

Sunday: Baranca – Carcoforo

After an invigorating farmer’s breakfast, we head uphill. First along a mule track that leaves the thundering Torrente Mastallone on the right and then up to Lago di Baranca, Col Baranca and beyond to Alpe Selle, where a large flock of sheep spreads out.

The ruins of Vincenzo Lancia’s Villa Aprilia can be seen from here. The villa was blown up by German troops in 1944 so that the partisans could not take up residence here. The route continues uphill across alpine meadows to the Colle d’Egua with its panoramic views. And what a view: the entire Monte Rosa east face with the Margherita hut in front of us! We climb a small “Hubol” so that we can see a little more of the white local mountains. And here’s another surprise: Petit Arvine summit wine!

The descent into the wide alpine basin of the Alpe d’Egua leads across an intensively used alpine area with cows, sheep and donkeys. The Rifugio Boffalora is very busy and polenta is served. Above all, we need a cooling drink for the last few meters down to Carcoforo, where the cab driver is already waiting.

Drive back to Omegna, where we are glad of a shady spot and a thirst quencher while Dominic picks up the bus in Campello Monti. During the drive home, there is already a lively exchange about the next stages in the 2024 …

Thanks to Dominic for leading the tour and to the participants for the great company.